One of the great things about suits is that
they make getting dressed simple. On one hanger, you’ve got most of
your getup for the day covered. So it’s easy to understand how a guy can
fall into a rut and keep his suits all together all the time. But true
varsity players (the guys who strangers ask, “where’d you get that?”)
know how to remix the suit by wearing suit separates. These guys aren’t
geniuses, they’re just smart about how they break up their suit into
separates. Joining them in the separatist movement isn’t hard. Here’s
how to pull it off.
Technically, you can separate the parts of any of your suits, but you
shouldn’t think of everything in your closet that your purchased
together as suit separates. While pinstripe suits look sharp as cheddar
when you step into the boardroom, they don’t hold up to being worn
separately. The whole pinstripe look depends on keeping the continuous
lines going all the way from top to bottom. Breaking up the lines, by
wearing just the pants or just the jacket, makes your whole outfit look
incomplete, like you half-asses the outfit.
Purists would argue that wearing the parts of a dark suit like a navy
or a charcoal as suit separates is a sartorial crime. We give these
dudes the Heisman stiff arm and keep on stepping because A) they tend to
be little scrawny dudes who we can push around and B) they’re talking
nonsense. For one, who couldn’t use an extra pair of neutral slacks in
gray or blue? Second, splitting up a dark suit is fine, you just have to
know how.
While combining solids and solids (i.e. your navy suit pants with a solid gray jacket) is not in violation of any fashion rules, it lands somewhere between sleepy and snoozer on the scale of sartorial interest. The other end of the spectrum, wearing two patterns (i.e. a check jacket and windowpane pants), can make for a pretty loud look.
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